Showing posts with label home automation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label home automation. Show all posts

Thursday, August 8, 2013

First thoughts on Philips Hue LightStrips

Bottom line, congratulations Philips! Great addition to the Hue LED lighting family.
 
 Philips hue
 
Apologies upfront for my initial paragraphs focus on unpacking and my inches rather than metric measures. 
 
First challenge is to figure out how to remove the unit from the box without destroying the box.
 
My box did not have any kind of tamper seal on the outer tab, so I could open the outer box without any sign.
 
Inner carrier slides out of the main box with out any problem.
 
Two tabs on the left side of the inner carrier allow you to open the top of the carrier like a book. But the lower tab is hot glued in place, just rub off the small glue bead.
 
Next I was able to slide the controler unit (a white box about the same size as the old Apple IR remote) out of the upper part of the inner carrier without damaging the packaging.
 
Then I was able to slide the round plastic carrier for the LED strip out of the inner carrier. Success, no damage to the packaging.
 
There are two paper documents in the package, a larger white 10 page (1/2 size of a sheet of standard letter paper) manual titled 'Philips LivingColors / LightStrips Safety Instructions - Part B' with a clearly visible text stating 'Last update: 05/06/13' (yo international company Philips is that May or June??) This document has at the top of the first page a set of 11 icons that I believe are used by Google or Apple as part of the interview process for new engineers and programmers. The second part of the document, if used in a job interview, would clearly show age discrimination, as it is set in a type font that cannot be larger than 4 point type. But good news about this manual, it is just safety instructions nothing to do with setup or operation of the LightStrips. And if you care, to the education value, it is written in 29 languages!
 
 
 
The second document, titled 'Friends of Hue Personal Wireless Lighting' is a small 2 inch by 2 inch square document, is the true 'getting started' document. Would be nice for them to say something like 'start here' on it. This document is another Google or Apple interview question, as it opens it's pages right to left and left to right. The correct answer (I think) is right to left. Lucky this manual (kind of) only has 12 languages, and they are all read left to right, which kind of corresponds to opening the document from the right. Anyway, as I said, this document is kind of multilingual, except the first six pages are all in English. Good news, the pages really don't tell you anything other than launch the Hue app on your mobile and click the button to add a new light to your system. The first really text page, that is duplicated in 12 languages, basically says cut your LightStrip to the length you want (but does not clearly show you the correct places to cut the strip, the strip itself kind of shows this), then stick it to the surface you want using the adhesive back, plug the strip into the power jack and then go back a couple pages in this manual to see how to add the strip to your system. Not a good job on instructions Philips.
 
 Hue lightstrips 01
 
The last two pages of the manual show you that you that you should not bend the strip where a LED is located and that the maximum recommended bend is 90 degrees. The last page gives you another chance to pass the Google or Apple job interview 'icon' test and then tells you to read the 'B' second manual on safety that I described above.
 
This is probably a good time to read the safety manual, because I just thought of something as I look at the strip of LED's. It is not clear to me that the voltage on the LED strip section is a safe voltage, rather than mains voltage. I am wondering what would happen if I plugged the unit into the wall socket and then decided to use by metal scissors to cut the end of the strip! At least it does look like the voltage is only 12 volts (I think DC) down from wall wart. Other than if you got at least the first two icons correct in the above mentioned safety test, the only place that it says that you should only use LightStrips in a dry indoor location is on the wall wart.
 
Bottom line, Philips could have done a much better job on the setup instructions by just taking advantage of the QR code they place on the front of the box. They should add a QR code reader in the HUE app and have a simple icon in the app that says 'Add New Light' and instructs you to scan the QR code. This would take you to a useful installation video on your mobile (as opposed to the marketing one that is currently displayed  on the 'Friends of Hue' page that the QR code and URL on the back of the small manual takes you to. Also Philips, make your web page recognize that you are coming from a mobile and format correctly. And make sure you grovel to Google YouTube so that your video plays on day one without stopping!)
 
The unit I purchase here in the USA is a USA socket device with a rating of 100-240 volts 50/60 Hz.
 
The LightStrips has 5 unique sections:
 
  1. The wall wart. The USA one that I purchased is a USA 2 prong ungrounded and unpolarized plug.
  2. A 38 inch 1/8 inch flexible round white cable that runs to the ZigBee control unit.
  3. The ZigBee wireless control unit, a white 3 1/4 inch by 1 1/4 inch by 1/2 inch box with the long sides rounded. As I said it is about  the size of the 1st generation Apple IR remote control that came with Macs. The unit has two 3M sticky tape points to attach it. The cables run in and out the small ends.
  4. A second section of 1/8 inch flexible round white cable that is 96 inches long (I will wait for my second unit to cut the cable and try and figure out how to extend). 
  5. The LED strip, the LED's are 1 9/16 inches  apart. The LED strip is 78 inches long. The transition from the 1/8 inch round cable to the flat LED strip is covered with a 1 1/2 inch piece of white heat shrink tube. There are 60 LED's on the strip. The cut points are every 4 inches.
 
The LED strip is similar to others I have seen in the current generation. It is 1/4 inch wide and 3/16 inch thick at its highest point. The strip is white with visible capacitors, LED's and cut points, along with the Philips name in off white every 4 inches. The back is a continuous strip of 3M double sided sticky tape.
 
When I first powered it on, all sixty LED's came on in an orange color.
 
I launched the Hue app on my iPhone and it found the LightStrips and named it 'LightStrips 1'. Clean and easy, I should have started here from the outside of the box!
 
The app continued to search for lights for about another 45 seconds and then gave me a 'Done' option. This screen is another example of where Philips could do a better job on the user experience. I do not think it would be very hard to put a 'count down timer or thermometer indicator' to tell you how much longer you have to wait for the search to complete.
 
The LightStrips added to my network without any problem and are working exactly like my other Hue bulbs. I will have to point you to others that are more qualified to talk about the light quality and color of the LightStrips. My initial two thoughts are as follows:
 
  1. The LightStrips do not seem to have as fine a level control as the Hue.
  2. The color of the LED's in the LightStrips do appear to be different and not as vibrant as the Hue bulb.
 
I think both of these assessments may be 'feelings' rather than any science differences in the LED's.
 
At USA $90, these are not going to be a main stream product for 85% of American consumers. That said, for those with a good application and the money, the Philips Hue LED system is the beacon to guide all of us to both better and more energy efficient light for all. The prices will fall, and I hope that Philips opens their technology enough to allow other quality lighting providers to work in a common system architecture. We do not need competing and different lighting control systems! The energy efficiency needs of the human race and planet need to be a higher priority than localized corporate profit. Consumers should be able to go out a buy a reasonably priced lighting device from quality providers that is 100% interoperable with all the other vendors. We do not have the luxury of time for the 'best socket' to slowly wind its way to market dominance, it is time for the big lighting corporations to get together and do the right thing together. Soap box off.
 
I was able to control the LightStrips with the same JSON and python code that I have been using with my original Hue bulbs. I admit I have not followed the API's closely since Philips published their official API documents, so perhaps their are more functions waiting to be exposed with these second family members of Hue.
 
The last set of LED strips I installed were about 5 years ago,  dinosaurs in the current scope of progress. Those were from Ikea of all places, I can say I have not saved enough energy to replace those with LightStrips as yet, but for folks that are a bit behind the 'beading' edge, Philips LightsStrips might be a great place and time to start in wireless LED lighting.
 
Bottom line, congratulations Philips! This is a useful and quality 2nd product in your wireless LED lighting direction. You are a leader and innovator! Keep it up. All my nit picks aside, okay one more 'Friends of Hue'????? WTF?????? I am not getting it. Don't let this EXCELLENT AND TIMELY FAMILY OF GREAT AND USEFUL TECHNOLOGY get tripped up by dumb marketing slogans, bad installation experiences, price and lack of interoperability. You have the Edison Socket by the 'horns', use this wonderful position you are in to lead the world to better light!
 
 
Hue lightstrips 02
 

Saturday, January 23, 2010

TI eZ-430 Chronos watch based wireless door lock

Ziyan Zhou and Zachery Shivers are two smart young guys studying at Rochester Institute of Technology. They have created a very nice project based on the low power TI 430 microcontroller and 9xx mHz wireless chips from Texas Instruments. I beat up on TI in a previous blog entry for their shoddy code review that allowed a big security bug to slip through in their Zigbee chips. Despite that fail, TI creates some very nice hardware that is enabling the Internet of Things. This project by Zhou and Shivers is a great example of what is going to explode in the coming months and years. They do a very nice job of reviewing security issues in their design. Give their project and the others at the TI430 low power design contest web site a look, good stuff! Vote for the one you think is tops, my vote was to Ziyan [Joe] and Zach.

Sunday, January 3, 2010

Zwave Home Automation, Leviton RS232 Serial Interface RZC0P basic wiring for USB Serial Adapter

I've started to work with a ZWave home automation control product from Leviton, the RZC0P-1LW. This device allows the control of Zwave based wireless home automation devices via a RS-232 interface.

The Zwave system is a proprietary system requiring a licensing agreement with Zwave Alliance group. Joining this group and paying some level of fees gives a developer access to programming and related information. The lowest level of membership in 2009 appears to be the Affiliate Member with an annual fee of USD300 and perhaps the requirement to purchase a USD500 hardware development kit.

There are a couple of other ways to programmatically work with Zwave devices, there are several home automation software and hardware systems that put one or more layers on top of the Zwave proprietary protocol. Doing a Google search of home automation and zwave will give you a list of these product. There are even a couple of open source projects that have reverse engineered parts of the Zwave control protocols and devices.

And a third way, in a sense a mini home automation layer, is to use one of these RZC0P devices in an existing Zwave network. As far as I can tell so far, the RZC0P cannot be the primary controller of a Zwave network. And every Zwave network requires one of these primary controllers to add, delete and manage the devices in a Zwave network. However, the RZC0P can be included as what is called a secondary controller. And a small amount of documentation has been created by Leviton to show you how to do basic functions to Zwave devices via ASCII commands to the RZC0P.

I've studied the Zwave products, vendors and public information for a couple of years. More on what I have found about it and my opinions later.

But for now, I wanted to share some tech work I did to get the RZC0P running on a small Zwave network I have set up to explores of of the uses of these devices for both Aging In Place and Energy Management.

I am not a RS-232 expert nor an electrical engineering guru. But I have spend enough time in both of these areas that I knew that I had a problem talking to the RZC0P pretty quickly. I had the documentation on the ASCII commands and the RS-232 configuration requirements. Using these, I hooked the RZC0P up to a IBM Thinkpad with a build in RS-232 port and was able to start communicating with the device right a way. The problems came with I tried to move my testing to a Apple OS X computer with a KeySpan USA-19HS USB serial adapter. I wanted do my testing using the Python language and tools and was more comfortable with using these tools on Linux and OS X.

The problem I encountered was that I could not get the RZC0P to respond to commands when attached via the KeySpan USB serial port. I did not try the KeySpan USB adapter on the Windows machine, but I suspect from reading some posts on the web that I would have found a similar problem. I found several other people that indicated they were only successful in communicating with the RZC0P using a serial port directly attached to the Windows machine.

At first I suspected that I was not correctly toggling some of the RS-232 control signals, however the devices cable and documentation point to, but do not directly spell out, that only TX, RX and Signal Ground pins are required on the cable and no software or hardware handshaking is done.

A further interesting fact appear as I played around with various terminal emulators on OS X and cable combinations. At various points of these changes, the RZC0P would start communicating. I struggled to find the pattern that made it work.


Well bottom, apologizes for my long route to my conclusion here.. I suspect that the RZC0P has some bug or non-standard implementation of RS-232 electrical interface. I found that if I used a RS-232 break out box between the Keyspan USB serial adapter and the RZC0P, with just the three pins, TX, RX and Signal Ground connected, the unit would work consistently. I could plug and unplug it, power it off and it would always come right up and communicate with the Mac software. So what was special about this RS-232 break out box?

The breakout box connects a set of LED from the TX and RX lines to signal ground via pull up resistors. This allows you to visually see the signal states change on these and other lines on the RS-232 specification. The breakout box I was using is a totally passive unit that adds no power or logic to the RS-232 signals it monitors.

So my conclusion is that the signal ground and RX/TX lines on the RZC0P are wired internally in some way that caused the logic circuit to not correctly start RS-232 communications without some electrical connection/kick between the RX/TX lines ad signal ground line.

My solution to the problem was to build a mini 9 pin DB-9 Male to Female adapter that recreated the passive monitoring circuit I found in the RS-232 breakout box.

I am guessing there is a better and simpler solution to this problem, but this seems to be working, and you get some visual feed back of the communications occurring via the two LEDs. Below is a picture of the finished adapter.

aw9345lzw.jpg

Here are the parts and steps:

Parts:
Male 9 pin DB-9
Female 9 pin DB-9
2 - 560 ohm 1/4 watt resistors
2 - LED
wire to connect pin 2 to pin 2, male to female DB 9
wire to connect pin 3 to pin 3, male to female DB 9
wire to connect pin 5 to pin 5, male to female DB 9

Steps:
Connect pin 2 to pin 2, male to female DB 9
Connect pin 3 to pin 3, male to female DB 9
Connect pin 5 to pin 5, male to female DB 9

Connect pin 2 on the male DB-9 connector to one lead of a 560 ohm 1/4 watt resistor
Connect the second lead of the 1st 560 ohm resistor to the anode lead of the 1st LED
Connect the cathode lead of the 1st LED to pin 5 on the male DB-9 connector

Connect pin 3 on the female DB-9 connector to one lead of the 2nd 560 ohm 1/4 watt resistor
Connect the second lead of the 2nd 560 ohm resistor to the anode lead of the 2nd LED
Connect the cathode lead of the 2nd LED to pin 5 on the female DB-9 connector